North Umpqua Trail

Relaxing hot springs await hikers at the end of a North Umpqua hike

The waters of our state are as diverse as they are spectacular.  Asking me to pick my favorite river in Oregon is like asking a parent to pick their favorite child.

But if I had to pick one, it might very well be the North Umpqua River, which tumbles off the jagged volcanic peaks of the southern Cascades and pours through a narrow gorge before joining the South Umpqua west of Roseburg.  The North Umpqua has got it all:  Dramatic waterfalls, glass-smooth emerald pools and stately old-growth forests.  It is an intense white water rafting adventure, and a world-renowned fly-fishing destination.  And it is close enough to Eugene—less than two hours—to be a reasonable day hiking destination for folks in Lane County. 

The extraordinarily cold and clear waters are the product of one of the world’s largest known explosions:  The eruption of Mt. Mazama about 8,000 years ago, which created Crater Lake and expelled billions of tons of pumice near the source of the North Umpqua.  Water percolates easily through this material, and is chilled to a temperature barely above freezing as it travels underground for miles before emerging as springs that form the headwaters of the river.  The North Umpqua is unique among the world’s rivers in that the mainstem, fed by refrigerated waters, is actually colder than its tributaries. 

Highway 138 parallels the river, and many spectacular sites—salmon spawning beds, columnar basalt speckled with lime-green algae—can be enjoyed from the road.  The rest of the scenery is taken in via the 79-mile long North Umpqua Trail, which is divided into 10 different segments between 4 and 18 miles in length, easily accessed by 12 different trailheads found on or near the highway. 

The different segments cover a lot of ground, taking in classic old-growth Douglas fir/western hemlock forests on the lower segments, as well as mixed conifer, ponderosa, and lodgepole pine stands as the trail gains elevation.  Some of the most notable sights to be had from the trail are double-tiered Toketee Falls, the 2002 Apple Burn (unfortunately closed to hikers), Boulder Creek, the Medicine Creek Indian pictographs, and moss-covered Crystal Springs.

One of the shortest but most interesting hikes is the 3.5-mile Hot Springs segment.  To get there, take I-5 south for 68.6 miles to Roseburg.  Get off I-5 at Exit 124, and follow signs for the North Umpqua River and Hwy. 138.  Take Hwy. 138 east for 59 miles, then turn north (left) for 2 miles and find the North Umpqua Trailhead at the east end of Lemolo Lake. 

The first thing you’ll see from the trail is the tall metal penstock that climbs a steep cliff face.  It’s just one part of the North Umpqua Hydropower Project:  Eight dams, three reservoirs, 30 miles of flumes and canals, six miles of penstocks and tunnels, and approximately 100 miles of roads, all located on public lands, all part of Scottish Power’s international energy portfolio. 

Most of these monstrosities are hidden from view as you climb, then descend and cross the river along a highway bridge.  On the other side, the trail climbs again, before once again dropping back down to the river.  The last three quarters of a mile take you through a moss-draped forest along the river’s edge. 

The best part of the trail is at the end.  After 3.5 miles, just before the trail crosses the river again, turn north (left) at a trail junction for a third of a mile to a clothing-optional hot spring covered by a rustic wooden roof. 

After your soak, you’ll want to explore the other great hiking segments along the North Umpqua.  You’ll probably have a tough time figuring out which one is your favorite.